Cultural and Historical Significance
The Gaja Laxmi statue holds immense cultural significance as an early representation of Goddess Lakshmi in Nepal. In Hindu tradition, Gaja Laxmi (Lakshmi with elephants) is the aspect of the goddess of wealth and prosperity, depicted as flanked by two elephants pouring water over her, symbolizing abundance, good luck, and fertility.
The discovery of this statue in Patan is historically significant: it is the earliest known sculpture of Gaja Laxmi in the Kathmandu Valley, marking the first recorded instance of this deity's worship in Nepal. Locals believe the idol could be around 2,000 years old, given that its intricate style resembles 1st-century Indian sculptures from Mathura. This suggests that as far back as the 1st–2nd century AD, the people of the Valley revered Lakshmi, integrating her iconography into their art and daily life.
Historically, Chyasal (where the statue stands) itself is steeped in lore and history. As mentioned, "Chyasal" originates from "chyasa," meaning 800, referring to an ancient battle in which 800 Kirat warriors were slain by invading Licchavis. While the tale is part legend and part history, it sets the scene for the era in which the Gaja Laxmi statue was likely erected. We can imagine that by the time of that battle (circa 250 AD), this sculpture may already have been present, "blessing" the community.
In fact, the statue's original purpose was likely tied to water and fertility: it is said to have stood over the local waterspouts, blessing the square's stone fountains since the first century of the Vikram Sambat calendar (around the 1st century AD). In a society where water was life, placing Lakshmi with her elephants (symbols of rain-bearing clouds) near a fountain would invoke prosperity and the continual flow of life-sustaining water. Thus, the Gaja Laxmi statue is not only an art object but also a cultural artifact reflecting ancient beliefs in divine providence and prosperity.
Artistic Details and Iconography
The ancient stone sculpture of Gaja Laxmi at Chyasal, Patan, is believed to be one of Nepal's oldest surviving idols (circa 1st–2nd century AD). The goddess stands flanked by elephants in the classic Gaja Laxmi motif, symbolizing abundance and prosperity.
The statue's artistry is a fascinating blend of early South Asian iconography and local craftsmanship. Gaja Laxmi is depicted in a standing posture, with her feet apart in a confident stance (samabhanga). Her right hand is raised in abhayamudra – a gesture of reassurance and blessing – while her left hand likely holds a lotus flower (a symbol of purity and fortune).
As the image above shows, the goddess is flanked by two elephants (gaja) on either side, their trunks lifted as if pouring water over her in a ritual ablution (jala abhisheka). This motif of elephants bathing Lakshmi emphasizes her association with fertile rains and royal authority, bestowing blessings of prosperity on the land and its people.
Despite its great age, many of the statue's artistic details are still discernible. Lakshmi is adorned with heavy ornamental jewelry typical of ancient styles: large circular earrings (kundal), thick ankle bracelets (kāli), and bangles on her arms. Around her neck she wears a simple one-strand bead necklace (kanthara), reflecting a minimalist elegance.
The figure's proportions – a sturdy torso with full hips and a high chest – harken back to early representations of the Mother Goddess, evoking fertility and abundance. Notably, the carving of her drapery is very refined: she wears a diaphanous garment with subtle pleats and folds. Art historians have pointed out that the style of the clothing and jewelry is strikingly similar to early Kushan-period art from Mathura (in India).
For example, the way the cloth's folds form a U-shape pattern, and the design of the massive anklets, are comparable to 1st-century Mathura sculptures. These artistic parallels not only help date the statue but also suggest ancient cross-cultural influences, indicating that the Kathmandu Valley was part of a broader artistic and religious tradition 2,000 years ago.
Viewed up close, the craftsmanship is impressive. One can still make out the carved lotus base beneath the goddess and the textured details of the elephants. Every element was carved from stone with precision – from the elephants' expressive faces to the ornate crown and hairstyle of Lakshmi (though time has worn these details down).
The iconography is unmistakable to those familiar with Hindu art, which is how historians could identify this weathered idol as Sri Lakshmi despite a lack of inscriptions. In essence, the Gaja Laxmi statue is an artistic time capsule; its form encapsulates ancient symbolism (the lotus for purity, elephants for rain and wealth, and the goddess offering blessings), and its style reflects the earliest era of sculpture in Nepal, making it a rare masterpiece of South Asian art history.
Visiting the Gaja Laxmi Statue: What to Expect
Visiting the Gaja Laxmi statue is like stepping back in time, but you should be prepared for a humble, local setting rather than a grand monument. The statue stands in a small, open courtyard in Chyasal Tole, a traditional neighborhood located approximately 500 meters north of the famous Patan Durbar Square.
Instead of being enshrined in a grand temple or museum, this precious idol remains in situ in the community, mounted on a pedestal near old stone waterspouts. In fact, as mentioned, it likely served as a guardian of these very spouts (or hiti) that once provided water to residents.
Upon arrival, you'll find the statue secured behind a metal grille for protection. It might feel ironic that Nepal's oldest goddess statue is essentially kept behind bars in a nondescript corner, exposed to the open air. There is no elaborate signboard or ticket booth – the site blends into the surrounding residential buildings and everyday life.
You might see local people passing by, children playing, or elders resting on the platform (legend has it that 800 heads are buried under that very spot!). The atmosphere is peaceful and authentic, offering a glimpse into how sacred art seamlessly integrates into daily life in Patan.
Through the iron bars, you can clearly see the dark stone figure of Lakshmi and her elephant attendants. Photography is possible by aiming your camera through the gaps in the grille (remember to turn off your flash to avoid disturbing anyone). As you observe the statue, note that some features are weathered: centuries of water, worship, and weather have smoothed out parts of the carving.
In fact, devotees traditionally splashing water or milk over the statue as an offering have contributed to the erosion of details over time. Nevertheless, the outline of the goddess and elephants remains intact, and you can still make out much of the jewelry and posture described earlier. It's humbling to realize that you are gazing at a piece of art nearly two millennia old in its original location.
There are no formal plaques or guides on site, so it may be worthwhile to read up (this blog, for instance!) before you go, or even hire a local guide from Patan who is familiar with the neighborhood's history. Locals in Chyasal take great pride in their heritage; if language permits, they may share folklore or point you to other nearby sights.
Do be respectful and considerate – this is a quiet residential area, not a commercial tourist spot. Dress modestly (as you would for temple visits), and if you happen to visit during a ritual or festival, observe respectfully from the side. The shrine area is always open-air and accessible, but it's best to go in daylight hours for safety and better viewing. Early morning can be especially serene, with soft light on the statue and the sound of temple bells in the distance, while late afternoon might find the courtyard filled with warm sunshine and locals socializing.
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
To help you plan your trip, here are some practical tips on reaching the Gaja Laxmi statue and timing your visit:
Location & Access: The Gaja Laxmi statue is located in Chyasal, Lalitpur, roughly 500 meters north of Patan Durbar Square. From the Patan Durbar Square area (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), it's about a 10-minute walk through the narrow lanes heading toward Chyasal.
You can ask locals for "Gaja Laxmi," "Chyasal tole," or even "800 sati le haneko thau" (place of 800 slain) – many will know the landmark. The statue is in a small courtyard near some old water fountains; look for a black stone sculpture behind a metal cage. There is no entry fee or formal gate – it's part of the public space in the neighborhood.
How to Reach Patan Durbar Square from Kathmandu: If you are coming from central Kathmandu (e.g., Thamel), the easiest way is by taxi or rideshare, which takes approximately 30–40 minutes (depending on traffic) to reach Patan Durbar Square. From there, you can walk or take a local rickshaw close to Chyasal.
Alternatively, local buses or micros from Kathmandu to Patan (Lagankhel or Patan Dhoka) are available and very affordable – get off near Patan Dhoka (the old city gate) or Mangal Bazaar. Chyasal is a short walk northeast from these points. Using an offline map app or asking shopkeepers can help if you're navigating the winding alleyways for the first time.
When to Visit (Season): The best time to visit Patan and outdoor sites, such as Chyasal, is during the dry, mild seasons. Autumn (October–November) and Spring (March–May) are ideal, with pleasant temperatures and mostly clear skies. During these months, daytime temperatures range from about 15–25°C, and there are few rainy days – perfect weather for walking tours and photography.
In winter (Dec–Feb), the mornings and evenings can be chilly (as low as 2–5°C at night), but midday is comfortable, and you'll find the city less crowded. Monsoon summer (June–August) brings frequent rain; while the landscape is lush, navigating Patan's lanes in heavy rain can be less enjoyable, and photographing the statue might be harder in dim, wet conditions.
Best Time of Day: Since the Gaja Laxmi statue is outdoors, daylight hours are recommended for viewing. Late morning or early afternoon typically offers good lighting for seeing details and taking photos. If you're a photographer, consider visiting in the morning when the light is softer or in the late afternoon when shadows are long and golden.
Avoid staying too late in the evening, as the area is not well-lit at night and you won't see much of the statue (not to mention you might startle the residents). Also, keep in mind that in the early morning, some locals may perform quick pujas (prayers) at such shrines – you can observe quietly if this occurs, as it's a special glimpse into living traditions.
Festival Considerations: While there isn't a specific festival dedicated to this Gaja Laxmi statue alone, the goddess Lakshmi is widely worshipped during Tihar (Diwali) in Nepal (usually in October/November). On the day of Laxmi Puja during Tihar, the entire city of Patan, including homes and courtyards, is illuminated with oil lamps in honor of Lakshmi.
Visiting around that time can be magical – the city's vibe is festive, and you may even see decorative lights near smaller shrines. Please be aware that during major festivals, traffic in the Kathmandu Valley can be heavier, and some businesses may be closed. Conversely, Chyasal also observes local Newari festivals; if your timing is right, you might catch a local jatra (street festival) or see the three-faced Ganesh shrine (mentioned below) adorned with flowers.
Nearby Attractions in Patan
One of the joys of seeking out the Gaja Laxmi statue is that you'll also discover the surrounding heritage of Patan. Here are a few nearby attractions and points of interest to include in your itinerary:
Three-Faced Ganesh of Chyasal: Just a stone's throw from the Gaja Laxmi idol is a unique three-headed Ganesh statue/shrine. Lord Ganesh (the elephant-headed deity) is very popular in the Valley. Still, a three-faced form is rare – in fact, Chyasal's Swapākhwa Ganesh is one of only two such Ganesh idols in Kathmandu Valley. The small shrine is typically adorned with prayer flags and offerings, and locals believe it protects the surrounding area. It makes for an interesting stop and photo, showcasing yet another ancient artwork in the neighborhood.
Historic Stone Water Spouts (Hiti): As you explore Chyasal, notice the old stone drinking fountains, or hiti, some of which are still intact. These elegantly carved water spouts once provided water to residents and are often guarded by serpent deities or other figures. In the center of Chyasal, you'll find Saraswati Hiti and Narayan Hiti, traditional wells that have their own minor sculptures and inscriptions.
They serve as a reminder of the sophisticated urban planning of the Licchavi/Malla eras – and they set a scenic stage around the Gaja Laxmi statue. It's pretty photogenic to see the ancient spouts with artistic carvings juxtaposed against the backdrop of local life.
Patan Durbar Square: Since you're already in the area, be sure to visit Patan Durbar Square if you haven't already done so. Just half a kilometer south of Chyasal, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a breathtaking ensemble of Newari architecture, royal courtyards, and pagoda temples. Highlights include the Krishna Mandir (a stone temple), the Taleju Bhawani Temple, and the Patan Museum, located within the old palace, which houses exquisite artifacts.
Patan Durbar Square is a cultural hub, featuring intricately carved windows and lively handicraft shops that surround it. It provides essential context to the era when later kings ruled from Patan, long after the Gaja Laxmi statue was carved.
Visiting the square before or after Chyasal will enhance your appreciation of Patan's rich and layered history. (Tip: The Patan Museum has a section on stone sculpture iconography; you might even find references to goddess Lakshmi or similar artifacts there.)
Hiranya Varna Mahavihar (Golden Temple): A 5-minute walk west from Durbar Square (or a short detour on your way back from Chyasal) brings you to the Golden Temple, a Newar Buddhist monastery renowned for its gilded metalwork. This 12th-century temple is a beautiful blend of Hindu and Buddhist elements – much like the syncretic culture of Patan itself. Inside the courtyard, you'll find ornate statues of Buddhas and Taras, ritual objects, and monks performing prayers.
It's a worthwhile stop for anyone interested in architecture, and photography is permitted in the courtyard (a small entry fee applies to foreigners). The Golden Temple showcases the continuation of the artistic traditions represented by the Gaja Laxmi statue in an earlier form.
Local Bahals and Temples: Patan is filled with bahals (monastery courtyards) and small temples tucked into every corner. In Chyasal itself, there is a Bhagwati Temple and the Saptapur Mahavihar (also called Chika Bahal). If you have time, wander east or west from the Gaja Laxmi site, and you might stumble upon these quiet courtyards adorned with butter lamps and statues.
Each has its own story – for example, Bhagwati (a form of Durga) indicates the area's protective deity, and Saptapur Mahavihar is a community Buddhist courtyard. Such spots are often not on tourist maps, but they offer a genuine feel of Patan's living heritage.
Local Markets and Crafts: Chyasal and the surrounding Patan area are renowned for their skilled craftspeople, particularly those specializing in metalworking and woodcarving. On the walk from Durbar Square to Chyasal, you'll pass through alleys where artisans might be sculpting statues or carving wood frames in small workshops – a tradition that has been alive in Patan for centuries.
You can also visit the nearby Mangal Bazaar or the vicinity of the Golden Temple (Kwa Bahal) for shops selling brass statues, thangkas (Tibetan paintings), and jewelry. Picking up a small Lakshmi statuette or an elephant figurine could be a lovely way to remember your visit, symbolically nodding to the Gaja Laxmi statue you came to see.
Conclusion
The Gaja Laxmi statue of Lalitpur may not be as famous as the gilded temples of Patan Durbar Square, but it is undoubtedly a crown jewel of Nepali heritage. In its weathered stone lies the story of an ancient civilization's faith, artistry, and way of life.
Visiting this statue is a rewarding experience – it's informative, as you learn about the roots of iconography in Nepal; awe-inspiring, as you stand before a 2,000-year-old work of art; and immersive, as you navigate through the living, breathing neighborhood that hosts this treasure. The blend of cultural significance, architectural detail, and authentic visitor experience at Chyasal is what makes travel in Nepal so special.
As you conclude your exploration, take a moment to absorb the scene: the gentle face of Goddess Lakshmi with her elephants, the laughter of children in the alley, the distant chime of a temple bell, and the realization that you've just touched a piece of antiquity.
The Gaja Laxmi statue may be a small attraction in terms of size, but it leaves a lasting impression about the timelessness of Nepal's cultural heritage. So whether you're a history buff, a photographer in search of that hidden spot, or simply a traveler eager to go beyond the guidebook highlights, the journey to this ancient statue is well worth it.
It's little experiences like these – finding an ages-old goddess nestled in a corner of the city – that make every trip to the Kathmandu Valley an adventure into the past and present. Happy travels, and may the blessings of Gaja Laxmi enrich your journey!
